Walking

I go walking every morning I am able to peel myself out of bed, which is fairly frequently.  This morning I decided to walk to the cemetery.  If you were Dominican you'd say, 'Wow, that's far!'  I usually try and avoid as many people as possible, cause it is mandatory to greet everyone, but in order to get to the cemetery you go right through the middle of town.  So, I keep my head phones on and just nod or wave and keep walking.

Half way down the hill I run into a Doña wearing a sleeveless moo-moo and a stocking cap.  We start chatting and she tells me she walks every morning.  So, me and this 50 year old woman walk down the mountain together.  Of course I leave her in my dust as we are walking back up, she tells me fat people have to go slower.  I see a literacy student and remind her of our meeting tonight, I tell her to bring all her friend too.  Dozens of men are walking the opposite way with their machetes to start the days work.  I walk with two girls going to school, we exchange names, but I can't pronounce either one, no surprise there.  Then I pass a dog wearing a polo shirt.  Wait, what?  Yes, that's right, there is a dog, just chilling wearing a red and white collared shirt.  It isn't a little dog either, it looks a lot like Lassie.  I look around really confused and nobody else seems to think this is weird, so I just walk on.  I am almost home.  My face is beat red and I am sweaty; a Haitian yells out to me, ¿Tienes calor?, are you hot?  People here feel the need to point out the obvious.

I made it home.  Heated a little water for my bucket bath in the latrine.  Brewed coffee in my fancy new coffee pot and had peanut butter and banana toast.

It has been another great morning full of interesting events.

Side note:  Dominicans think the more you sweat, the more weight you lose.  I met one of my walking partners this morning.  She was bundled up in a winter coat.  I mentioned that it really isn't that cold.  She goes on to show me her faja (a tight elasticy band worn around your belly), which she is wearing over a plastic bag, plus her winter coat, all to sweat more.  How uncomfortable and unnecessary!

Current Thoughts

• I have been battling a cold/flu for over a week now.  It has seriously drained my energy.  Hopefully I can kick it in the next couple of days.  Everyone that hears I am sick offers to make me tea, I love it.

• My English class is coming along nicely.  I laid down the law Tuesday about attendance and arriving on time.  I think my not feeling well combined with the irritation of more than half the students walking in late and interrupting me to greet everyone put me on edge.  

• I have officially declared war with the ants in my house.  I had mentioned making my house feeling more like a home and less like a camping trip.  Last night there was a slug stuck to the wall and a frog plopped on top of my mosquitero.  So, my new plan is to fully embrace my camping lifestyle.  I will need to stock up on graham crackers and marshmallows. 

• Yesterday, I made the most delicious banana bread to date.  Then again, it could have been the addition of chocolate that made it so great.  Not a week goes by that I don't make banana bread.   It is so easy and it keeps my intense cravings for baked goods at bay. 

• My hiking group has grown.  We now have 4 members!

La Bestia

Last week, Maciel (my awesome neighbor) and her husband Toni were going to Las Sabilas, a far off mountain where there are lots of farms.  Maciel was going along to cook for Toni and the 6 workers planting beans, and they invited me along for the adventure.

At 6 am I mounted their horse, la bestia, and we were off.  The ride a bit treacherous.  We went up and down mountains, navigated skinny little paths, and crossed more than one river.

Upon arriving, we unpacked the cooking pots, the rice and beans, the spaghetti supplies for breakfast (yes, spaghetti is a breakfast food here).  Toni went to fill jugs with water and find squash to boil with the bananas and yucca.  Since I'm not really a Dominican cook, I just chatted with Maciel while she prepared the food over a fire outside a little shack.

The views were incredible, and it was so peaceful out there away from the blasting music, playing children, and their boisterous mothers.  There were rain clouds looming in the distance as we packed the supplies back on the horse and two mules.  Half way through our ride the skies opened up.  The already saturated ground became a muddy mess and the animals slid around like they were wearing roller skates.  Not going to lie, I was scared.  I was clutching the horses mane as I tried to stay on top of this beast.  Toni would yell when we got to rough spots, "Hold on Nikki!"

I rode down main street when we got back to town.  Everyone laughed and greeted me and pointed out how soaking wet I was.  I dismounted my horse and my first thought was, ouch!  I wobbled home and peeled off my sopping wet clothes.  After a hot shower and a steaming cup of coffee I laid down to rest my aching back.

I was such a trooper on the trip, they invited me to go next time!   I will have to bring my camera (if it ever arrives) so you guys can check it out.

Couple things

I was so excited about my tacos, I forgot to mention that I started teaching English.  I had class on Tuesday and Thursday.  After endless requests to teach, I gave in and decided I'd do one class for the teachers.  That worked until the students found out.  So, now I have two classes.  In total, 49 people showed up the first week!  It was even raining on Thursday, and people normally don't attend any activities when it is raining.

My first class went great.  They knew more that I expected.  My project partner is in this class.  It is funny to see him as a student because he is a teacher and also the director/principal of the high school.  He wants to get his PhD in the US, so studying English is pretty important to him.

The second class didn't go as well.  The 'English Teacher' at the school attended my class.  He was overpowering, too serious, and generally annoying.  He yelled at the kids for not answering my questions, told them he had already taught them this material, and stopped me every couple of minutes to discuss his various problems.  I was dying for 6 o'clock to roll around so I could be free of him.  I am planning on asking him to not attend my class.  Did I mention he does not have a teaching degree and does not speak a word of English?  Ugh!

I have somewhat of an afternoon routine now.  I eat lunch with Sonia and fam.  Head home to digest and read a bit, then I sit with Albania while she reads.  Then I head to the school.  Olga, one of my future literacy teachers, comes to sell juice, empanadas, and popcorn to the high school kids. We chat and snack and I visit Allendi (my project partner) in his classroom.

The inversor in the school has yet to be fixed.  There is a problem with the wiring.  I am assuming the rats ate the wires.  Yes, it has been in disrepair since last year.  No, the repair man has not shown up after various set appointments.  No, the kids don't have money to buy gas for the generator.

So, last night when I was hanging out the electricity went out.  Since there was no money for gas, the students left after one hour of class.  Just one more obstacle to learning children here face.

I get so frustrated with the education system here.  Untrained teachers, lack of space (we need a high school), and a serious lack of resources.

I have one more downer for you all.  We have a clinic here in Monte Bonito.  It is well kept and has an inversor so there is always electricity.  There is only one doctor.  He only sees patients in the mornings, when he feels like it.  There is no confidentiality between the doctor and his patients.  Many people refuse to see him because he will gossip with the rest of the townsfolk about your illness (Wouldn't you love the whole town to know you have Herpes?) or your desire to take birth control (15 year old girls get pregnant instead, and women have children they can't afford to feed).  Yesterday, yet another ridiculous thing happened.  The clinic ran out of examination gloves.  I am not even kidding.  I am going to go up to the clinic next week to survey what they have and to meet the doctor.  Hopefully I can try and fix at least the glove problem.  Wish me luck!

Tacos

If nothing goes right the rest of the day, I won't care, because I just ate tacos!  It was a process, but so worth it.  I am covered in flour, bean juice, and I dropped guacamole on a little girl's face.

The last couple of days I accumulated red and green bell peppers, avocados and black beans.  All I was missing was tortillas; I decided to take on the challenge of making my own.

The dough was super sticky and soft.  My tortillas were all sorts of crazy shapes, but once I piled on the re-fried black beans, guacamole, and sauteed peppers and onions, you couldn't even tell!

One thing I really miss about Arizona is the abundance of Mexican food.  I can't wait to have chips and salsa, quesadillas, and margaritas!

Side note: Last night when I was getting ready for bed, there was tons of lightening.  I woke up in the middle of the night to a crazy rain storm.  Buckets of rain were pouring down.  I thought my little house was going to be washed away.

Witches

The other night on the news there was a story about two witches.  The one woman was teaching the other how to 'fly'.  Their adventure ended when one fell off the roof and broke her leg.  We all laughed at the witches, and it was a topic of conversation the next day.  People would ask, "Did you hear about those witches?"

Somehow, a story was started that I am a witch.  One of the Haitian workers at Sonia's house seriously believes that I am a witch.  When I visit, they ask if I went flying last night?  I say yes, and talk about my latest potions.

In reality, witches, potions, and curses play a part in Dominican culture, whether they admit it or not.  Everyone has their superstitions, and unexplained illness must have been caused by a curse.  When you see a baby you have to bless it otherwise you may cause it to fall ill.  Most of them can be seen wearing red bracelets for protection.

The lack of education here leads to all sorts of crazy ideas.

Great Weekend

I got some sun at the beach.  Invested in a measuring cup.  Found butter at the super market, and ate some delicious banana pancakes with Laura.  After such a great weekend I am ready to take on this week.  Today, I have my first meeting with the English teacher.  Tomorrow, I will teach my first English class!

September

These first weeks of September have been great!

Some of the things I am happy about:
hiking
baking
planning the literacy program
school finally starting
tutoring continues
having a new table and cabinet
agreeing to teach the teachers English twice a week

The rest of the month looks bright as well!  I am headed to the beach in Azua this Saturday for Laura's birthday.  We plan on spending the night in San Juan in order to attend a Rotaract meeting.  There is a grocery store and fruit vendors in San Juan so I will be bringing home lots of goodies.  The end of the month there are meetings for the different volunteer committees at the Peace Corps office in the capital.  After attending some meetings I plan on soaking up the sun at the beach.  I hope the tropical storms and hurricanes don't rain on my parade.

Dear neighbor,

I am trying to enjoy my Sunday morning. Please, stop your ranting. Please, just for today. You can continue your yelling, demanding, and ordering people around tomorrow, but let me enjoy today in peace.

Thank you,
Your friendly (and quiet) neighbor Nikki