Christmas

Christmas here is pretty low key as far as decorations, lights, music, and presents go.  They make up for all that with weeks of music till 4 a.m. and all day drinking.   Here in the Dominican Republic families, neighbors, and friends gather on Christmas Eve for a big dinner.  They do it big and bake chicken and pork, which they normally don't do because using your oven is expensive.  Spaghetti, a spread of cold salads including green salad, potato salad, and macaroni salad crowd the table along with tostones, apples, bread, and brightly colored sodas.

On Christmas day everyone puts on new clothes.  My project partners son asked me if I had purchased my December clothes yet.  I told him it wasn't in my budget.  The day is full of visiting, eating leftovers, and the whole family taking a trip to the discoteca.

I made myself pancakes for breakfast and settled in to watch a movie.  My neighbor came by shortly after I had enjoyed Love and Other Drugs to tell me she had some bad news.  She went on to explain how my land lord's daughter had said that my bed and my plastic chairs are going to be 'repossessed', and that I needed to find a new place to live.  Merry Christmas, your family is coming to visit in a week, you are leaving to the capital in two days and there is no other available housing in town.  Ahh!

Thankfully this girl was just talking smack.  I spent a whole day fretting over the whole ordeal, and there were definitely some tears involved.  The situation brought be to my New Year's Resolution though, I need to grow some thicker skin.

Uninvited

Remember when I described how great Sonia and her family are to me?  Well, that all quickly changed after I won the pig..

As soon as I won, Sonia and her son told me I would keep the pig at their house and butcher it there.  All I had to do was give them the intestine and the feet.  I would then give meat to the butcher, the police, the man who comes to check to pig is in good health, and finally the man who sells the meat.  After all that I couldn't imagine there would be much left, so I opted for option number two, sell the pig whole, and alive to someone who would butcher it.  Sounded way easier, and that is what I did.  I sold it to the highest bidder for a couple thousand pesos.  

Ever since this all went down I have been getting the cold shoulder from Sonia.  I would visit their house less and less because I started to feel uncomfortable.  Then I heard they were saying I was selfish, and not easy.

They used to say I was like their daughter and sister, and now they look the other way when they see me coming.  I guess things change quickly around here.  I am not sure what I will do.  The culture here is very indirect.  If I were in the States I would probably march over there and set this all straight and tell them how ridiculous it is they are upset because I sold the pig that I won, but I think the Dominican way is to ignore the Elephant in the room until we just pretend it didn't happen.

My plan was to eat Christmas dinner at their house.  They had invited me long ago.  Not a word about my attendance at dinner has been spoken recently.  I am going to say I was officially uninvited when I won the pig and didn't them them take advantage of that.

They are only one family of hundreds here in the community.  People have been reaching out and inviting me to share their Christmas Eve dinner.  So, last night I ate 3 of the exact same Christmas Eve dinners, because everyone cooks the same thing, the same way.  My neighbor pulled me aside to tell me that all she wanted was for me to feel welcome and loved and know that they are my family here, I was so touched by her words.  I am glad I got to share Christmas Eve with my neighbors.

The fun continues today with non stop music, leftovers and an afternoon trip to the local discoteca.

All Up in My Business

I am going to make a sweeping assumption and say that small towns all over the world share one unfavorable quality.  No matter what country, language or culture.   That is gossip, which we call chisme here in the DR.

As I sip my coffee or shell legumes with my neighbors, there isn't much else to talk about except the weather, and the latest neighborhood drama.  I will admit, I have gotten caught up in the juicy details at one time or another, but I have reached my breaking point.  Especially, since I have been a topic of gossip and bad mouthing.  I would rather not know you think I'm selfish because I sold the pig and didn't give everyone and their mom a piece of my winnings, or that I am stuck up because I don't visit every house daily.

I know way too much about everyone's private lives and am tired of hearing the bad things they say about me.  I imagine after weeding this chisme out from my life, I will be an all around happier person with more faith in my community.

I would also like to wear a sign that says if you call me fat I will punch you in the face.  First, because it is none of your business, and second, because you are fatter than me!

Bottom line, I need a break.  At first I thought staying in my site for Christmas would be a good idea, but now I want to run away as fast as I can.

I won a pig!

I entered a raffle to win a pig.  The tickets were 100 pesos.  I picked number 73. The winning number would be the first number picked in the National Lottery on Sunday night.

News spreads here like wild fire on a windy day.  At first they were saying 23 won.  Then 73.  I was skeptical because everyone likes to pull my leg.  One of the organizers of the raffle came to congratulate me.  I won!  I asked several times if he was joking or lying, and if I'd really won.  I just couldn't believe my luck.

I walked all over town telling my friends I had won a pig.  They congratulated me and asked when we were going to eat pork.  As a rule of thumb, I don't eat pork here.  The meat is always so fatty and tough, it just isn't appealing.  Oh and there is no bacon, tragic, I know.

I got back to Sonia's house where I first found out I won.  Rosa, my 15 year old ex-best friend, comes in laughing saying number 63 was first and I didn't win.  I wasn't sure who to believe.  Nobody could tell me for sure if it was mine or not.

I was fuming because I thought they were playing a joke on me.  Maciel was in the fritura, I went to tell her about the drama.  Like a big sister she told me we would sort it all out tomorrow and not to worry about it.  She even called me after I went home to reassure me.

Before heading to bed I watched some Modern Family.  Mid-episode I smelled cigarette smoke and then heard people talking out in my yard.  Sunday is a big night to drink, so I thought they were just randoms drunkards hanging out.  I texted Maciel to send her massive husband over to get rid of them.  Turns out it was my 15 year old, slightly crazy enamordo, who slipped a love note under my door a couple weeks ago.  He was serenading me.

After all the happenings that night, and the day before (Sonia's sister-in-law felt the need to call me fat, I didn't take it well), I was sick and tired of Dominicans.

This morning I was still not sure if I was the winner.  My emotions were all out of whack.  I wasn't sure if I should celebrate or be disappointed.  I went by the Banca, where they post the lottery numbers, and saw 73 at the top of the list.  I WON!  It is official.

I plan on selling it whole to be butchered.  I don't have any plans for my winnings yet.

Update:  I sold the pig and spent most of my winnings on a bed frame.  A rather anticlimactic end to the story.

Chicas Brillantes

A few weeks ago I was feeling a little down.  I was trying to start a girls group but nobody was showing up for our Sunday meetings.  Then one Sunday morning two of the girls came to my house and said they had rounded up a group and were planning on meeting me at the school that afternoon.  I was pleasantly surprised to find 14 girls waiting for me.

We discussed what kind of activities they wanted to do, rules of the group and roles of each member.  I was secretly elated when they voted me in for President.  We do fun things every Sunday and I find myself looking forward to our meetings.

So far we have made friendship bracelets, cooked a Christmas feast and decorated a banner to hang up.  I want to keep it fun.  Does anyone have suggestions of craft projects or activities I could do with the girls that do not require a ton of supplies?

The Holidays

Holidays have never been overly traditional in my family.  We don't always celebrate at a specific house, or have a special family recipes.  We can celebrate anywhere, as long as there is delicious food and drink involved.  I think this adaption has been helpful to me over the years.  After moving to Arizona, I was wearing shorts and sandals to Thanksgiving and opening Christmas presents while the lights on the cacti blinked outside.  When I was studying abroad I celebrated Thanksgiving in Spain and Christmas in Paris.

Now as a PCV in the DR, having a pool party, drinking piña coladas, and carrying leftover pie on the guagua for Thanksgiving feels right.

My mom always goes all out when it comes to food, for anything.  Since arriving here I forbade her to give me the low down on what she is inventing for whatever party, holiday, or Friday night dinner she is hosting or attending.  I miss family dinners and cooking with my mom.

For Christmas I will be here in the DR.  I keep asking around about traditional food.  It doesn't seem like there will be anything too out of the ordinary from everyday Dominican fare.  I am going to try and recreate some of my favorites from home.

My mom, grandma, and Auntie Shelly are coming to visit me at the end of this month.  They get here New Years Eve and will spend a full week here.  I can't wait to see some familiar faces.

Sleep

this rooster is lucky to be alive 

I didn't sleep a wink last night thanks to the donkeys, roosters, dogs, and pigs that decided to gab from dusk till dawn.  A nap is definitely in order this afternoon.

pumpkin bread and the olla I bake with

Both my neighbors gave me a ridiculous amount squash this morning.  So, I baked something that resembles pumpkin bread, it was pretty tasty.  I will have to bake 5 more loaves to use up all the squash.

someone brought over a years supply of ginger

I need to get up some courage to ask my landlord about replacing the wood.  I want it to be finished before my visitors come.  Not sure if that will happen because the coffee harvest is in full swing, and every available worker is pick or processing coffee. I have been learning a lot about the process.  I helped out a bit too.  I hope to roast my own coffee in the upcoming weeks.

The State of Our School

Every time I visit the school I get a little depressed.  Today I was there to help teach gym class.  Olga, a twenty-four-year-old university student, is substituting for a teacher who broke his leg. Our supplies consisted of one dilapidated soccer ball and a small area behind the school in between the bathrooms and the garbage pile.  I tried to think up some activities and games that did not use equipment, we ended up doing jumping jacks, burpees, wheelbarrow races, and the crab walk.  The kids and I had fun while Olga tried to be serious but couldn't help laughing.

The Ministry of Education sent supplies to our school, but that was 5 years ago. This is just one of an endless number challenges facing the students here.  There is no library, the kids share a couple text books, they sometimes share chairs, there is no crayons, no markers, the bathrooms is out of order and there is no drinking water.  I want to help, but where do I begin?

*I wrote this post awhile ago but did not published it.  I have good news to share though.  The Route 66 Rotary Club is donating sports equipment to the school in my community.  I will post some pictures when we receive our supplies.  I am also working on a grant to repair the school.

Mi Casita

my latrine and yard

looking out my side door

through that door is my bedroom, it's just a 2 room house

my lovely plastic chais

there are 2 doors in my house and no windows

my neighbor 'reading' a book

Decision Made

I have decided against cementing my house.  After I wrote my post about the pros and cons I had initially decided to go for it.  I went over to tell my landlord my plan, and ask for a discount on my rent.  [Note: my landlord is blind and had a stroke years ago, so he doesn't see, walk, or speak].  He is a little intense, so I just blurted it out.  He shook his head violently and told me through his wife that the house is fine as is.  I quietly explained that the wood is full of holes and is falling off the house.  Then he agreed to replace the wood, free of charge.  What a deal!  With all the money I am saving, I think I am going to paint the new wood once it is up.

Anonymous, want to come help me paint?

The only downfall to this is the Dominican sense of time.  I would not be surprised if it took 6 months to start the project.  I will keep you updated on the progress.

lack of pictures

I would like to apologize for my lack of posts lately.  I have been feeling a bit uninspired.  Maybe it is the absence of pictures to post.

My camera, along with the computer I initially brought with me were stolen back in June.  I have a little netbook now, which had some issues, but it is in better working order after a fellow volunteer did a little work.   My lovely parents sent me a package with a camera and a jacket back in August, but it still has not arrived.

In the process of trying to track down this lost package, there was a bit of a situation the other day.  The DR postal service confirmed that my package was at their office and just needed to be picked up and paid for,  but it didn't end up being that simple.  After some failed communication, and a lot of frustration, I still do not have this darn package.  Maybe next week.  I did receive a wonderful care package from my Auntie Shelly, so all was not lost.

I will be at language training all week starting tomorrow.  Before heading back to my site Friday I will hopefully pick up my camera.  Send good vibes my way to make this possible.

Chilly weather and failed meetings

The mornings here have always been crisp, but as summer winds down and we move into fall the mornings and nights are down right chilly.  Along with cooler weather I was hoping for less rain...hasn't happened yet.

There have been two literacy meetings now, yesterday and the Friday before.  The first meeting was a complete failure.  One person showed up.  After the disappointment I decided I needed to rally.  So, last week I went around to every neighborhood advising people about the meeting.

That Friday after, the rain clouds clung to the mountains.  At three o'clock I watch a curtain of rain come towards my house.  I sighed deeply knowing attendance at the meeting in two hours would be slim.  When five rolled around, I walked the short distance to the school only to find it empty.  I had expected late arrivals, but as a half an hour rolled past I was still alone, disappointment once again.

By six, there were five students, and my two facilitators.

I am planning on trying again.  This next time I am going to try an attendance raffle and refreshments.

Two pictures and a dilemma

Literacy

This picture was taken in the school during a graduation ceremony for literacy students.  The program lasted 3 of the 6 required months because the wrong workbooks were received.  Most of the students write their name and two of them can read simple sentences.  There is definitely room for improvement, and I am happy to report that most of these women will be taking the course again starting in January.  

The man gesturing towards me is my project partner, Robert.  I call him Ayendi.  This was one of the first days in my community and he is introducing me to everyone and telling them all they need to take care of me. 

Next summer, I hope there will be a graduation ceremony for my literacy program.  I want all of the students to be able to read multiple word sentences and know basic mathematics.   

pancakes

This is a picture of me, eating pancakes, in the dark, at my new table, in my house.  My dilemma has nothing to do with pancakes.  Look behind the syrup and chocolate milk carton at my wall.  You see a crude slab of cement and some of the wood poking out.  You can kind of see where the slab ends and the wood begins.  I have been debating whether I should cement my whole house.  

Here are some reasons to go ahead with the project:

• Lack of privacy because there are many holes in the wood.
• No protection from the elements, because water and wind enter these holes.
• Aesthetics: The walls are just plain ugly.
• I will leave a cozy, private, and good looking house for someone to live in when I leave.

Reasons I should leave the walls as they are:

• Cost: 5,000 pesos 
• Time: I will only be here for 20 more months (I have been here 7 months already!)
• Inconvenience of living somewhere else while the work is completed, even though many people have offered to have me stay with them
• Where do I draw the line?  After the cement I would have an uncontrollable urge to paint.

There are alternatives.  My parents suggested I put cardboard up over the wood.  It would act as an insulator and cover the holes for privacy and protection from the elements.  I am not sure what this does for aesthetics, but this is Peace Corps.   

The other option, suggested by my Dominican neighbors, is curtains, because no good Dominican home is complete with out them.  Curtains on the doorways, curtains on the windows, curtains on the walls, curtains covering the tables, one can never have enough curtains.  The problem with this is, I am just not a curtain person; they are expensive and ugly.  (I can't wait to show you the curtain my neighbor put up in the doorway to my room.  It is teal with flowers and glitter.)

I may end up with cardboard covered by curtains.  I am welcoming any suggestions you may have.  

Walking

I go walking every morning I am able to peel myself out of bed, which is fairly frequently.  This morning I decided to walk to the cemetery.  If you were Dominican you'd say, 'Wow, that's far!'  I usually try and avoid as many people as possible, cause it is mandatory to greet everyone, but in order to get to the cemetery you go right through the middle of town.  So, I keep my head phones on and just nod or wave and keep walking.

Half way down the hill I run into a Doña wearing a sleeveless moo-moo and a stocking cap.  We start chatting and she tells me she walks every morning.  So, me and this 50 year old woman walk down the mountain together.  Of course I leave her in my dust as we are walking back up, she tells me fat people have to go slower.  I see a literacy student and remind her of our meeting tonight, I tell her to bring all her friend too.  Dozens of men are walking the opposite way with their machetes to start the days work.  I walk with two girls going to school, we exchange names, but I can't pronounce either one, no surprise there.  Then I pass a dog wearing a polo shirt.  Wait, what?  Yes, that's right, there is a dog, just chilling wearing a red and white collared shirt.  It isn't a little dog either, it looks a lot like Lassie.  I look around really confused and nobody else seems to think this is weird, so I just walk on.  I am almost home.  My face is beat red and I am sweaty; a Haitian yells out to me, ¿Tienes calor?, are you hot?  People here feel the need to point out the obvious.

I made it home.  Heated a little water for my bucket bath in the latrine.  Brewed coffee in my fancy new coffee pot and had peanut butter and banana toast.

It has been another great morning full of interesting events.

Side note:  Dominicans think the more you sweat, the more weight you lose.  I met one of my walking partners this morning.  She was bundled up in a winter coat.  I mentioned that it really isn't that cold.  She goes on to show me her faja (a tight elasticy band worn around your belly), which she is wearing over a plastic bag, plus her winter coat, all to sweat more.  How uncomfortable and unnecessary!

Current Thoughts

• I have been battling a cold/flu for over a week now.  It has seriously drained my energy.  Hopefully I can kick it in the next couple of days.  Everyone that hears I am sick offers to make me tea, I love it.

• My English class is coming along nicely.  I laid down the law Tuesday about attendance and arriving on time.  I think my not feeling well combined with the irritation of more than half the students walking in late and interrupting me to greet everyone put me on edge.  

• I have officially declared war with the ants in my house.  I had mentioned making my house feeling more like a home and less like a camping trip.  Last night there was a slug stuck to the wall and a frog plopped on top of my mosquitero.  So, my new plan is to fully embrace my camping lifestyle.  I will need to stock up on graham crackers and marshmallows. 

• Yesterday, I made the most delicious banana bread to date.  Then again, it could have been the addition of chocolate that made it so great.  Not a week goes by that I don't make banana bread.   It is so easy and it keeps my intense cravings for baked goods at bay. 

• My hiking group has grown.  We now have 4 members!

La Bestia

Last week, Maciel (my awesome neighbor) and her husband Toni were going to Las Sabilas, a far off mountain where there are lots of farms.  Maciel was going along to cook for Toni and the 6 workers planting beans, and they invited me along for the adventure.

At 6 am I mounted their horse, la bestia, and we were off.  The ride a bit treacherous.  We went up and down mountains, navigated skinny little paths, and crossed more than one river.

Upon arriving, we unpacked the cooking pots, the rice and beans, the spaghetti supplies for breakfast (yes, spaghetti is a breakfast food here).  Toni went to fill jugs with water and find squash to boil with the bananas and yucca.  Since I'm not really a Dominican cook, I just chatted with Maciel while she prepared the food over a fire outside a little shack.

The views were incredible, and it was so peaceful out there away from the blasting music, playing children, and their boisterous mothers.  There were rain clouds looming in the distance as we packed the supplies back on the horse and two mules.  Half way through our ride the skies opened up.  The already saturated ground became a muddy mess and the animals slid around like they were wearing roller skates.  Not going to lie, I was scared.  I was clutching the horses mane as I tried to stay on top of this beast.  Toni would yell when we got to rough spots, "Hold on Nikki!"

I rode down main street when we got back to town.  Everyone laughed and greeted me and pointed out how soaking wet I was.  I dismounted my horse and my first thought was, ouch!  I wobbled home and peeled off my sopping wet clothes.  After a hot shower and a steaming cup of coffee I laid down to rest my aching back.

I was such a trooper on the trip, they invited me to go next time!   I will have to bring my camera (if it ever arrives) so you guys can check it out.

Couple things

I was so excited about my tacos, I forgot to mention that I started teaching English.  I had class on Tuesday and Thursday.  After endless requests to teach, I gave in and decided I'd do one class for the teachers.  That worked until the students found out.  So, now I have two classes.  In total, 49 people showed up the first week!  It was even raining on Thursday, and people normally don't attend any activities when it is raining.

My first class went great.  They knew more that I expected.  My project partner is in this class.  It is funny to see him as a student because he is a teacher and also the director/principal of the high school.  He wants to get his PhD in the US, so studying English is pretty important to him.

The second class didn't go as well.  The 'English Teacher' at the school attended my class.  He was overpowering, too serious, and generally annoying.  He yelled at the kids for not answering my questions, told them he had already taught them this material, and stopped me every couple of minutes to discuss his various problems.  I was dying for 6 o'clock to roll around so I could be free of him.  I am planning on asking him to not attend my class.  Did I mention he does not have a teaching degree and does not speak a word of English?  Ugh!

I have somewhat of an afternoon routine now.  I eat lunch with Sonia and fam.  Head home to digest and read a bit, then I sit with Albania while she reads.  Then I head to the school.  Olga, one of my future literacy teachers, comes to sell juice, empanadas, and popcorn to the high school kids. We chat and snack and I visit Allendi (my project partner) in his classroom.

The inversor in the school has yet to be fixed.  There is a problem with the wiring.  I am assuming the rats ate the wires.  Yes, it has been in disrepair since last year.  No, the repair man has not shown up after various set appointments.  No, the kids don't have money to buy gas for the generator.

So, last night when I was hanging out the electricity went out.  Since there was no money for gas, the students left after one hour of class.  Just one more obstacle to learning children here face.

I get so frustrated with the education system here.  Untrained teachers, lack of space (we need a high school), and a serious lack of resources.

I have one more downer for you all.  We have a clinic here in Monte Bonito.  It is well kept and has an inversor so there is always electricity.  There is only one doctor.  He only sees patients in the mornings, when he feels like it.  There is no confidentiality between the doctor and his patients.  Many people refuse to see him because he will gossip with the rest of the townsfolk about your illness (Wouldn't you love the whole town to know you have Herpes?) or your desire to take birth control (15 year old girls get pregnant instead, and women have children they can't afford to feed).  Yesterday, yet another ridiculous thing happened.  The clinic ran out of examination gloves.  I am not even kidding.  I am going to go up to the clinic next week to survey what they have and to meet the doctor.  Hopefully I can try and fix at least the glove problem.  Wish me luck!

Tacos

If nothing goes right the rest of the day, I won't care, because I just ate tacos!  It was a process, but so worth it.  I am covered in flour, bean juice, and I dropped guacamole on a little girl's face.

The last couple of days I accumulated red and green bell peppers, avocados and black beans.  All I was missing was tortillas; I decided to take on the challenge of making my own.

The dough was super sticky and soft.  My tortillas were all sorts of crazy shapes, but once I piled on the re-fried black beans, guacamole, and sauteed peppers and onions, you couldn't even tell!

One thing I really miss about Arizona is the abundance of Mexican food.  I can't wait to have chips and salsa, quesadillas, and margaritas!

Side note: Last night when I was getting ready for bed, there was tons of lightening.  I woke up in the middle of the night to a crazy rain storm.  Buckets of rain were pouring down.  I thought my little house was going to be washed away.

Witches

The other night on the news there was a story about two witches.  The one woman was teaching the other how to 'fly'.  Their adventure ended when one fell off the roof and broke her leg.  We all laughed at the witches, and it was a topic of conversation the next day.  People would ask, "Did you hear about those witches?"

Somehow, a story was started that I am a witch.  One of the Haitian workers at Sonia's house seriously believes that I am a witch.  When I visit, they ask if I went flying last night?  I say yes, and talk about my latest potions.

In reality, witches, potions, and curses play a part in Dominican culture, whether they admit it or not.  Everyone has their superstitions, and unexplained illness must have been caused by a curse.  When you see a baby you have to bless it otherwise you may cause it to fall ill.  Most of them can be seen wearing red bracelets for protection.

The lack of education here leads to all sorts of crazy ideas.

Great Weekend

I got some sun at the beach.  Invested in a measuring cup.  Found butter at the super market, and ate some delicious banana pancakes with Laura.  After such a great weekend I am ready to take on this week.  Today, I have my first meeting with the English teacher.  Tomorrow, I will teach my first English class!

September

These first weeks of September have been great!

Some of the things I am happy about:
hiking
baking
planning the literacy program
school finally starting
tutoring continues
having a new table and cabinet
agreeing to teach the teachers English twice a week

The rest of the month looks bright as well!  I am headed to the beach in Azua this Saturday for Laura's birthday.  We plan on spending the night in San Juan in order to attend a Rotaract meeting.  There is a grocery store and fruit vendors in San Juan so I will be bringing home lots of goodies.  The end of the month there are meetings for the different volunteer committees at the Peace Corps office in the capital.  After attending some meetings I plan on soaking up the sun at the beach.  I hope the tropical storms and hurricanes don't rain on my parade.

Dear neighbor,

I am trying to enjoy my Sunday morning. Please, stop your ranting. Please, just for today. You can continue your yelling, demanding, and ordering people around tomorrow, but let me enjoy today in peace.

Thank you,
Your friendly (and quiet) neighbor Nikki

Sonia and family

It can be difficult to explain who people are here and I know them.  I just end up say that everyone is my neighbor.  Sonia is my landlady and sudo Mom.  Her husband owns half of the land in my community and have about 50 cows.  They have 10 people working for them daily.  Her husband went blind and had a stroke, so he is pretty immobile and barely speaks, so Sonia takes care of their home and the business.

She is a pretty awesome cook.  Her fried chicken is delicious.  She makes breakfast and lunch daily for the  workers and her family. She has two sons, Daniel is 20, George Luis is 24, and her daughter, Rosa is almost 15.  I eat at their house at least once a day. Sergio, her husband grumbles to for them to send me home with limes, bananas, and avocados from their farm.

If I am not at my house I am probably chillin at Sonia's house.  They have an inversor = 24/7 electricity,  comfy chairs, and occasional milkshakes.  If I don't pop in to say hi before noon, she will send someone over.  The other day, her nephew was sent to ask what was wrong with me, was I sick, because I hadn't been to visit that morning.  She sent her daughter another day,  to inform me she made soup and I needed to go eat mine.

The last time I went to the pueblo, I went with her and her youngest son.  That's when I attended the surprise funeral.  When she talks it sounds very bossy, but in a motherly way.  "Take this. Sit down. Come, we are leaving. Get in the truck."   It makes me smile.

I was informed the other night while we were watching our soap opera, 'Los Herederos del Monte', that when my parents come visit, they are going to butcher a pig for the occasion.

I feel lucky to have found this great family.  I look forward to many more delicious meals and relaxing hours spent in their rocker.

School

The state of the education system here is, to be blunt, disgusting. Classes were set to begin last Monday.  Due to the hurricane, the President canceled classes.  This Monday, the school was going to open, but no, the teachers canceled class to have a meeting.  The government recently gave them a pay raise, and then cut their insurance.  Today, Tuesday, all of the children should be headed to school.  There were10-15 children who showed up.  My neighbor's children didn't go, she stated that today is Tuesday, the week is almost over, she'll send her girls on Monday, and plus they don't have new hair ribbons.

So, two weeks will have past before the teachers can start instructing the whole class.  If it rains (we are in the midst of hurricane season) nobody attends class.  If it's a holiday, they take the day before and the day after off too.

I am set to have an after school program to help those kids whose parents are illiterate with their homework.  Hopefully I can make a small difference.

Hurricane Irene

Monte Bo was saved from the wrath of Irene.  It has been overcast and a gentle breeze blows, which has been a  pleasant change from our hot, sunny afternoons.  The worst of the storm hit last night when we had heavy rain combined with wind.

I made arroz con leche (rice pudding) yesterday afternoon.  It is the one Dominican dessert I can't get enough of.  There was lots of sharing, and I finished the rest of it off this morning for breakfast.

My neighbor ladies just discussed another approaching storm while we had morning coffee; they think I'm fancy because I have powdered creamer.

Campo Smoothie

I have been dreaming of whipping up a smoothie ever since I got to this fresh fruit filled country.  Today, my dream was fulfilled!  It was no easy feat to put it together.

First, I spotted the nearest colmado owner enjoying strawberries.  My mouth was watering as I asked him where he found them.  Turns out he brought them from Santo Domnigo.  He gifted me four.  The little neighbor girl saw me carting them home and asked for one, and another one for her sister.  Ugh, I'm down to two strawberries 

I went on to look for bananas at another colmado.  They were out.  Maybe tomorrow they told me.  I then saw a little friend of mine eating grapes.  I asked her which way the grape lady (a Haitian woman who walks around with a huge bucket of grapes balanced on her head) went.  I didn't end up finding her, but I did score some bananas while visiting Celia (where I paint my nails).

While walking back to my house, bananas in hand, my landlord, Sonya, handed me a sack of limes.  I borrowed Maciel's blender.  Combined my strawberries, a banana, lime juice, milk, and dry oatmeal (if you have never put dry oats in your smoothie you must try it.).  I drank my smoothie with great satisfaction.  

Cornbread and Tutoring

While in the capital last week I bought a dutch oven or olla horno.  This special little device allows me to bake on the stove top.  Yesterday I decided to christen my olla horno with a loaf of corn bread.  I used to have a serious obsession with corn bread, so I am pretty good at making it.  There isn't a stick of butter to be found in this country, so I will have to be a creative baker.  I'm sure there will be many less than fabulous baked goods.

The first loaf was a little dry and didn't rise.  The Dominicans didn't seem to mind though; it was gone in minutes.  My neighbor Maciel loved it so much, she asked if we could bake another loaf.  The second attempt was better than the first.  It was more moist, but still did not rise properly.  Here is the recipe I used, I tweaked it a bit to better suite the available ingredients.

• Olla Horno Corn Bread
• 1 cup flour
• 1 cup yellow cornmeal
• 1/2 cup azucar crema
• 1 tsp salt
• 3 1/2 tsp baking powder
• 1 egg
• 1 cup milk
• 1/3 cup vegetable oil
• *note: due to lack of measuring cups, just eyeball measurements

This is a sharing culture.  If someone comes over, you offer them coffee or juice, rice or boiled bananas.  My neighbors bring me bowls of rice and beans, tostones and fried chicken, and rice pudding.  In keeping with this theme, I need to give them whatever I make.  After I saw how quickly my corn bread disappeared, I decided that when I make something it has to be large amounts so I can share with half of Monte Bonito.  

Maciel and I are going to make brownies or a chocolate cake today.  We discussed baking in secret so we don't have to share.

I started tutoring my first literacy student, my friend and old neighbor Albania.  She is a mother of 2 who used to work at a hotel in Punta Cana.  She knows the alphabet and the basics of reading and writing.  We are using an old first grade workbook.  I am impressed by her motivation and work ethic.  We had a serious discussion about her wanting more out of life than just cooking and cleaning for her less than amazing husband.  

School starts next Monday.  The kids are all getting ready. I look forward to visiting the school and helping in anyway that I can.

Great Homecoming

I got back to my site today after almost a week in Santo Domingo where I attended a conference to present my diagnostic and work on my 1 year project plan.

My last night in the capital I went to see the new Harry Potter movie, and had pizza and beer for dinner.  It was a great end to my trip.

I brought a ton of goods back to my community.  I now have a dutch oven which I can use to make quick breads and brownies on the stove top.  I also have a sleeping bag, some wash tubs for dishes, a collection of children's stories, a stock of lactose free milk and a loaf of wheat bread.

The book caused quite a frenzy.  After I saw their excitement I decided I want to create a library here.

The toilet was installed yesterday in my latrine, it is amazing.  My neighbors and I all gathered around to awe at it's greatness.

A truck came around today selling chickens.  I couldn't help but get one.  It is staying in my neighbor's chicken coop until I construct one.  It is still pretty young.  I'll let you know when I have my first egg.

Needless to say it has been an exciting and exhausting day.  I am ready to relax tomorrow and bake some brownies to share with everyone.

Latrine

The shack in my yard that serves as my 'bathroom' has been stressing me out a bit.  I have forever had a dislike for port-a-potties, outhouses, and biffies.  My only stipulation for a house during my search was an indoor bathroom.  An actual room in your house to bathe and do your business is very convenient (please note how pleasant your experience is next time you enjoy your bathroom).  Note: Here it is rare to find a flushing toilet; you have to manually flush with a bucket of water.


Needless to say, with my luck, there were no available houses with indoor bathrooms.  I thought it wouldn't be too bad.  After all it was my own private latrine and in pretty good condition.  Let's just say, I am not as good at roughing it as others.  I trying adding a toilet seat, hoping that it would improve my experience, but no, I was still uncomfortable.

So, after a community wide discussion about my comfort level and 'bad aim' I purchased a second hand toilet  that is being installed in my latrine while I am away.

I can't wait to see my new and improved latrine!

Maciel

I have this awesome neighbor, Marciel.  She gifts me coffee, food, her kitchen utensils, borrows me her wash machine.  She is all around amazing.  Her two daughters are great as well.  We all play dominoes and chat on their porch.  Today we were talking about her back; she has some sort of back issue and needs surgery which she cannot afford.  I asked her how old she is and was shocked to find out she is 23, the same age as me!  Her motherly nature makes her seem older, and in some ways she seems wiser.  I then thought about our two lives, and how completely different they are.  She has been married 11 years, has 2 children, built her own home with her husband, and is attending night school to get her high school diploma in hopes of going to the university to become a teacher.  I am single, without children, and have my bachelors degree.  I think we bond over our love for cake.

This reminds me of the documentary Babies.  I have only seen the trailer but I would love to watch it.  It follows babies in their first year in various parts of the world.  Have any of you watched it?

I leave for to the capital tomorrow for our 3 Month In Service Training.  My project partner is going with me, and I can't wait to see him interact with the other volunteers and project partners.  It may be awkward at times as well, because I haven't spend such a prolonged period of time with him.

I want to post about my house, but it will be much more exciting with pictures.  I need to work on getting a camera, and then I can give you a glimpse of my fabulous life here.

Cyclone Emily

I am here in San Juan waiting in a hotel for the cyclone/tropical storm to pass.  I received a call yesterday from the PC telling me I needed to pack my things and get to San Juan right away.  The storm has yet to arrive and the weather is hot and sunny.  Hopefully it turns out to be a mild cyclone.

Update: The Southwest is expected to get heavy rain, 20-25 inches.  We will continue to wait out the storm in our hotel.

Update 2: Emily has passed and I will return to Monte Bonito this afternoon.  I hope the road up to my site is passable after the rain.

Water

The rain, clean drinking water, and the lack of running water are all affecting my life now more than ever.

Rain- In Arizona it rarely rains.  I am not used to so much rain.  There has been few days here on my mountain that it hasn't rained.  All this water complicates things.  Since our streets are unpaved they turn into mud.  I hop from one stone to the next hoping I don't fall into the mud.  People don't visit when it's raining, so it can be boring.  And lastly, when it rains, it's cold!  I am currently cooped up in my (new!) house.  It's been raining all day and there hasn't been any electricity.

Agua buena- I believe I told you previously about the drinking water situation.  Agua buena is basically purified drinking water that is sold in 5 gallon jugs, called botellones, like the one below, they are a staple in most Dominican homes.  Mine has the same cool pump on top thanks to my mom & dad.

 Things can get tricky on the mountain when it comes to filling these jugs.  We have gone days without agua buena. I will be purchasing two so I will always have drinking water.  I carry around my nifty thermos full of water so I don't risk drinking bad water when I'm out and about.

Hauling water- My house doesn't have a kitchen or a bathroom.  Therefore, I don't have a sink.  I have a big trash can that I fill with water at the neighbor's house and keep in my kitchen.  There isn't always running water from the tap.  It comes usually once a day and the women take advantage and fill up various containers with water for bathing, cooking, and cleaning.  Since moving into my own place I have joined them in this routine.  I fill a bucket for the latrine that I use for bathing, and then I make sure the trash can is full.  I stick some chlorine into each bucket for good measure, and I'm set until tomorrow when the water (hopefully) comes again.

I already look forward to hot showers where the water comes out of the shower head.  Mom, I will gladly wash dishes in the sink with running water; and I will enjoy the AZ sunshine and clear skies.  Until then, I need to invest in an umbrella, some rain boots and that extra botellon.

Ups and Downs

It is said that your PC experience is like an emotional roller coaster.  So true.  I try to be optimistic and positive, but sometimes it is challenging.

Saturday did not start out very well.  As I drank my coffee my host mom made a comment to me that got under my skin.  I quickly went to my rooms as tears welled in my eyes.  I collected myself and then went over to my neighbors to get my milk out of her fridge.  I caught her looking through her husbands text messages.  She informed me and the other females in the room there was nothing suspicious there.  (The lack of trust in relationships here is really getting me down.)

After packing up, I went to wait on the main road for a truck to leave for the pueblo.  As I waited I witnessed a woman hitting her child repeatedly with her shoe.  Another woman cheered her on, "Harder, harder!"  Good thing I was wearing sunglasses, because I couldn't hold back the tears.

My afternoon was definitely better than my morning.  I was greeted by Laura's smiling face in Tabara Arriba. I went to stay the night with her and get to know her site, she is the closest volunteer to me; it took an hour and a half to travel to her site from mine.  

Her host mom made us limeade, mango milkshakes, and coffee.  We walked around her town and swam in the river.  A neighbor had a mini fiesta where we ate delicious mofongo (plantains, garlic, and fried pork rind).  Laura and I chatted about our frustrations, spoke English, and ate Snickers.  It was rejuvenating.  

My first day back I met more potential literacy students.  My house was approved by PC but not until we complete some updates.

I have started to hike a little bit too.  I need to take advantage of the cool weather and great views.  I went up to a line of mango trees and on my way down, this old man gifted me limes, chayote squash and this large tropical fruit (it's supposed to make great juice).

chayote

I think this roller-coaster will continue for awhile.  It is challenging to live in another culture away from everyone you know, especially when all eyes are watching your every move and mood.  

Goat

I will be eating goat tomorrow.  Wish me luck!

I wish I could...

eat vegetables.

button my jeans.

cook!

drink iced coffee.

lounge in sweats on the couch.

forget about 'agua buena'.

take a hot bath.

Housing update:

Someone from PC is coming to check out my house on Monday.  I will then have the electricity installed and be able to move in.  I can't wait!

While I was walking today (working on buttoning my pants) I passed a pile of puppies outside someones house.  I had to stop and see them.  Their mom wasn't around so I'm going to go back to see if they'll be guard dogs or lap dogs, I'd really take either.

Locally Grown

view of Monte Bonito 

In the US it is fashionable to eat locally. It can be difficult to find locally grown products some places, but here in the DR and especially up on my mountain it is challenging to not eat locally. While I was still tucked in my covers this morning I heard the bull being slayed across the way. I wandered over to the neighbors place after getting dressed to find a plate of fried beef and toastones waiting for me. It was probably still warm while she cut it up. I then went to help shell beans that were harvested up the road yesterday. Then my host mom and I went to visit the pollero (chicken man). He cut up a freshly plucked chicken next to the coop that held ten of this little guys friends. I washed down my locally grown lunch of beans and chicken with limeade made with limes grown here in Monte Bo. To top it all off I had a banana for a snack. There are so many here they are practically free.

Lets just say by US standards I am pretty darn fashionable when it comes to eating locally.
I look forward to getting some laying hens and planting a garden. I may even try to compost. I will keep you posted on my progress.

4th of July

Bright and early Saturday morning I caught a bola (free ride) down the mountain in a big truck.  It had rained the night before so the mud was thick and slippery.  At one point we were sliding down the mountain.  I was clutching the side and thanking myself for choosing to sit inside the cab and not standing in the bed(an 80 year old woman stood instead). I had to stop in Bani before going to Santo Domingo to pick up the police report. From the capital I traveled North East to Samana and then to Las Galeras. Almost all of the kids from my training group made the trip. It was great to see everyone. We stayed at a hotel within walking distance to the beach. It rained a good amount while we were there, but we had a good time anyway. On the last day, we boated through some pretty big waves to a secluded island. There were huge cliffs, an abundance of palm trees and coconuts, and only one other group of people on the beach. I felt like we could've run into Tom Hanks from Castaway.

Obviously it was difficult to leave this amazing place, but I had to get back to my site. I spoke with my project partner and my host mom and they all missed me.  Wednesay I went back to the capital and ended up hanging out too long. If I want to 'get up my mountain' I have to arrive early. So, on ThursdayI left early and I was greeted by the welcoming faces of my friends in Monte Bo (thats what the locals call it). It only took two guaguas, two hours waiting for a bola, and an expensive moto ride up the mountain.

It feels good to be 'home' though. The first day back I went to check out a house my neighbor owns. A Peace Corps volunteer that lived in this community 10 years ago rented the same house, how neat! It has two rooms and its own outhouse. There is already a bed there so I need to work on getting a stove, fridge and maybe a wash machine. I hope to be moved in within the next two weeks!

Thoughts and Facts

Here is some snippets about my life.

• Monte Bonito elevation 3,444 ft. 
• 300-350 homes
• Unlike other ´campos`, the houses here are clustered and their farm land surrounds the community in the mountians.  It makes for a stronger community spirit, which helps me integrate.
• I haven´t identified  suitable housing.  I may be constructing a bathroom or a latrine.
• I ate my first avocado of the season!
• Everyone is surprised when I tell them we don´t eat green bananas or plantains (which they eat boiled or fried).
• I explain frequently that no, New York is not the same as the United States, and yes I'm an American and not a Spaniard. 
• Almost every male in my community walks around with a machete.  I think I may do the same : )
• The normal greeting I get is, "Hi. What's your name?  Are you married? Have you ever been married?  Do you have a boyfriend?  How many kids do you have?"
• I have identified 2 literacy facilitators in my community along with 20 enthusiastic students so far.  I need to work on funding to pay the facilitators and a space with a generator to have night class.

I rode a mule!

The other day I was invited to visit Los Gajos to get mangos.  I enthusiastically said yes.  Like most situations I know little at first and as time goes on the light bulb goes off and I realize what is going on.  We were going to hike 3 km down a mountian to get fruit from a farm, then we´d hike back up.  Once I reached the bottom of this mountian.  I seriously questioned my ability to hike the 3 km back to Monte Bonito. 

Luckly, we visited this awesome farmer and his family.  Their spread of fruit trees was impressive.  Mangos, passion fruit, limes, oranges, pomagranates, star fruit and bananas.  After eating a ton of mangos, picking fruit to bring home, and drinking some coffee, we were ready to start our journey.  That´s when they said,"Nikki, you get on the mule."  I politely declined not wanted to look weak, but quickly accepted after they insisted.  The awesome farmer hoisted me ontop of this mule and off we went. 

I made passion fruit juice, my favorite, from the fruit I brought home.  I ended up giving away most of my mangos.  After you tell someone you went to Los Gajos, they ask you what you brought them.  They are all about sharing here, so I had to hand over mango after mango. 

There is another trip in the works.  Hopefully I´ll get to ride the mule back up the mountain again.  I still need to ride a burro (Mary K, they´re the same kind you have) and a horse (which happen to actually be large mules).

Busy settling in.

I arrived at my site on Thursday. I will be living with my project partners aunt. Her house is only a year old. It was built for her by Sur Futuro. There are 2 bedrooms, a bathroom(my toilet has a seat!), a kitchen and living/dining room. She has a son that lives in Santo Domingo so it is just the two of us. She sells chicken and cheese empanadas. We just made a fresh batch today. This could be dangerous for my already expanding waisteline. Besides empanadas, she doesn't cook. Therefore I will be eating with my project partner and his family. They live a short walk away in a house they just finished constructing. They have 4 children, 2 boys and 2 girls all under 13.

On Friday I attended a seminar Sur Futuro was holding for coffee growers. Today I went on a tour of community and went to cut down some green bananas from the plot of a neighbor. This included a journey over the mountain, me stepping ankle deep in mud the first 10 minutes, and a million mosquito bites. It was a great hike though. So pretty.

Tomorrow I plan on making passion fruit juice, climbing a mountain to look for mangos,and attending a birthday party.

The weather up here on my mountain is wonderful. It is warm during the day but cools off at night. My host mom and I sit around the left over coals from cooking for warmth. I have to sleep with a blanket! They laugh when I say it's cold and tell me to wait until December. Who would've though I'd be shopping for a winter coat on my tropical island?

I'm moving the mountains

Yesterday I went to visit a community that solicited for a volunteer to work with Sur Futuro's literacy program.  The town is located in the Azua providence.  It was a 2.5 hour drive from the capital.  We drove up an unmaintained dirt road for 25 minutes to reach the community of Monte Bonito.  There are around 300-350 homes, a high school, a rural clinic and a ton of avocado trees.  Their main source of income is agriculture. My project partner will be a high school math teacher who served as president of their community orgaization. 

I've been in the capital for almost two weeks now.  I'm excited and anxious to move to my new place.  My parents are sending me a netbook this week, so I will soon have a computer and hopefully an internet connection. 

Things are looking up

I was at my site for about a month, and I have been in Santo Domingo for a week now. I am getting a site change after my community was found to be an unsafe environment for me to live. I am a little disappointed to have to start the integration process over, but I know I need to do what is best for my safety.

On Monday I will visit a community that solicited for a volunteer to work in adult literacy. I was told it was beautiful mountainous agricultural community (sounds great, I know!). My main project will be working with 80 illiterate adults but I hope to help them with their reforestation project as well.

This week I shoped at the mall, went to happy hour, ate chocolate cake and watched TV in English and lounged by the pool.  I feel so spoiled! I am going to enjoy the rest of my weekend here in the capital.  I will let you guys know how Monday goes.  It is possible I will be moving to my new home next week!

"If you will call your troubles experiences, and remember that
every experience develops some latent force within you, you
will grow vigorous and happy, however adverse your
circumstances may seem to be."
-- John R. Miller

Wow.

I don't even know where to begin.  Quite a lot has happened since I wrote last.  I am currently staying in Santo Domingo.  Various incidents occured in my site and at my host family's house and will most likely result in a site change.  I no longer have a computer or my camera, but I am in good health and still in pretty good spirits. 

I will update you when I know more and I'm sure Mom and Dad can tell you guys in depth about whats going on.

I LOVE mail!

I know some of you are wondering how I receive mail.  The postal system here is a bit different than in the US.  All my mail is sent to the Peace Corps Office in Santo Domingo.  There, my mail is put into my mailbox and waits for me to come pick it up.  I will be stopping by the Peace Corps Office once in awhile to get mail, see the doctor, or complete paperwork.  As a rule of thumb, you should only send letters and padded envelopes through USPS.  My address is on the right hand side bar of my blog.

Things on my wish list include, but are not limited to:

jump rope

powdered gatorade packets

red licorice

anything on my Amazon Wishlist

face sunscreen

stickers

pictures, posters, maps, or anything to hang on my walls

Yerba Mate tea
dark chocolate M&Ms

I will add things to my list as time goes on, but for now that's all.  

It's been awhile

I know it has been awhile.  I have been at my site for a couple weeks now.  I've lost count.  This is the first time I've been able to use my laptop.  There is one internet center in Santa Rosa and I couldn't connect my laptop so I didn't spend my 30 pesos to use the internet.  I'm in Baní today.  There is a volunteer, Jessica, that lives a 15 minute moto ride away.  We decided to go to a pool near the beach and then have pizza and use the internet here in Baní.

I had a rocky spot last week.  For six days my diet consisted of antidiarrheal meds, rehydration salts, and saltine crackers.  I'm not really sure what I had.  I will finish some antibiotics tomorrow for some sort of infection/virus, I'd really prefer not to know.  While I was sick everyone had their own 'remedy' for my sickness.  My host mom made me tea with garlic and oregano.  Another woman made me fried plantains and fried chicken stating that fried food doesn't have fat.  Needless to say I can't wait to get my own place and control my diet.

Speaking of, I've had my eye out for house in the community.  Some they have shown me had latrines/outhouses, which I'm not too keen on, and others were a bit out of my price range.  We'll see what I come up with in the next couple months.  My host mom would prefer that I just live with her the whole time.

I haven't been doing too much lately as far a 'work' goes.  You are suppose to take some time to integrate into your community.  So, I spend my time hanging out at my host family's house, the elementary school on our street, the banca (lottery place) with Fatima (one of the facilitators), Fatima's house.  I meet a lot of people, watch soap operas and American movies in Spanish.

I will hopefully be updating more often.  Within the next couple of months I look forward getting wireless internet for my computer, but like everything here it is a process.

I put up some pictures.

Swearing In

my host mom in black and her sister and niece at swearing-in

I am an official Peace Corps Volunteer.  So exciting!  We swore in on Wednesday in a ceremony at our training center in Santo Domingo.  A representative from the Embassy was there as well as Dominican government officials and our host families. 

The following day, Thursday we had All Volunteer Conference.  The 200 some current volunteers serving in the DR attended.  It was blazing hot out and a lot of the information was review, but there were peanut butter and jelly sandwiches and fresh juice so all was not lost.  That night I stayed in a hotel in the Colonial Zone of Santo Domingo, ate at a Mediterranean restaurant and went out a bar we rented out.  The next morning I had pancakes, sausage and eggs for breakfast before heading to the pool! 

I know you’re thinking that this all doesn’t sound too Peace Corps but I would like to say I am now back in my site.  I packed up and moved the rest of my stuff to my new home on Saturday.  Everyone seemed delighted to see me and I feel content now that I’ve reached my ‘final destination’.  This week I’m going to recruit my host brothers to help me make some shelves and a clothesline in my room.  I can then unpack a little bit and be more organized.